Forum Title: Basement door frame to concrete repair
This was previously a Bilco door type entry to the basement. Years ago, Bilco doors were removed when a sun room was added. With that the doorway to the basement was framed to accommodate a very nice and heavy, solid wood door that I removed and refinished. The door frame was framed out with 2 x 8's attached to the concrete/cinder block walls. Over many years, there had been drainage issues where water seeped through the concrete and penetrated the lower parts of the door frame, to the point of termite damage. I've had a contractor over to give me an estimate on re-framing the doorway to replace the same door. He seemed reluctant to give me an estimate but knowing I have some skills, told me to just cut the damaged parts off and fit in new 2 x 8's but DO NOT use pressure treated wood. I cut the damaged areas off as he suggested but have doubts about how to go about finishing as he stated to. Would his suggestion be supportive enough for a heavy door? Should there be a barrier film between wood and concrete? There is still a potential for moisture seeping, drainage was addressed but on very heavy rains there is still some seepage in one corner, (Last Photo)Attachment 71828Attachment 71829Attachment 71830Attachment 71831
Category: Windows & Doors Post By: THOMAS J (Phoenix, AZ), 01/30/2019

You'll probably want the 36 wide, as long as you have the room for it to slide out of the way. You want some overlap to avoid being able to see in at a diagonal. The door has to be spaced away from the trim so it doesn't bang it (less critical if you have a floor guide to hold the bottom in alignment). I think the height will be ok. You can actually set the top farther down from the top of the trim because when the door is shut, you will be looking up at an angle and the door will shadow the top of the trim. But 3/4 gap at the bottom isn't really a problem in any case.

- TERRENCE GARNER (Redwood City, CA), 02/05/2019

Without the 2 x 8 frame: approx 39 1/2 w x 74 1/2 h.

- BECKY ROJAS (Topeka, KS), 03/03/2019

I think I would remove all the wood from the cement, not just half of it and also remove the top jamb. Then line the sides of the opening with some 3/4 treated plywood, glued and screwed to the concrete. Then make your own custom sized prehung door... get yourself a 36 door slab (a flush solid core door would be best), and some jamb material, assemble a jamb that is as tall as possible, consider keeping your hinges centered on the jamb by cutting some length off both the top an bottom of the hinge side jamb, then assemble the jamb. Then cut the top and bottom your door to fit your jamb and hang it on your jamb. Buying a jamb kit saves you from having to do half of the mortising. You will still need to mortise the door for hinges so they will line up with the jamb. Or if you don't mind doing all the mortising, just buy some poplar 1x8 to use as jambs and some door stop and diy. Then install that prehung door into the opening with shims and screws. You will likely want to install a long tapcon screw in each hinge to hit the concrete... and possibly countersink a few others into the opposite jamb as needed. You could buy a prehung 36 door as well, but most will be hollow, which means cutting a plug for each end you cut off.... and if the door is prebored for a knob, you won't want to just cut 5 off the bottom, it will make the knob 5 too low. Could be done, but it might be more work... plus disassembling a prehung jamb sometimes destroys it.

- MONICA LYNCH (Fall River, MA), 02/15/2019

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